Know Your Necklines
The neckline of a garment is an important and often undervalued feature of clothing that can be seen in items ranging from tops and blouses, to knits and dresses. It’s important because different necklines can highlight or minimise particular body features, enhance or detract from an individual’s proportions, as well as make intentional style statements. If we consider our face, or portrait area (from the top of chest upwards) as our centre of communication, it follows that what we wear close to our face should ideally harmonise and balance our colouring, face shape, features, and overall frame.
A neckline refers to the front opening of a garment at the neck, and its relative shape and position on the upper body, above the bustline. Below are some of my favourite necklines that I often choose for my clients during personal shopping sessions, depending upon their frame, shape and features. I’ve listed these below so that you might better understand why you have instinctively selected some necklines over others, as well as help you know what to look for next time you are clothes shopping.
V-necklines are typically created when two lines come together to form a point or ‘V’ shape. They can be narrow, wide, shallow, deep or crossover in style. A classic, deep V draws the eye inward and down, which is elongating and particularly great if you have a medium to shorter neck length, or if you wish to reduce the width of your shoulders. A fuller bust will be minimised when wearing a deeper V-neck and a higher or classic V will work well for a smaller bust. The V-neckline suits most face shapes. If you have a very angular jawline, you may wish to opt for a softer V-shape or U-shape neckline.
The V-neckline is a universally versatile and classic neckline that suits most individuals.
A straight neckline that runs horizontally across the collarbone to the shoulder points is referred to as a boat neckline or bateau. It tends to draw the eye up and out and will give the illusion of broadening narrow shoulders. Therefore, it can balance horizontal proportions where the width of an individual’s hips is greater than their shoulder line. This can be a very elegant neckline and the strapless, or off-the-shoulder neckline is wonderful if you wish to highlight your shoulders and decolletage area. This neckline can be ideal for small busted ladies, and if you are petite in stature, because it draws the eye up to your face thus elongating vertical proportions.
Similarly, an asymmetrical neckline suits a small bust, elongates the neck, adds dimension to a straighter body type, or accentuates a curvy one. This neckline can certainly make a statement.
A boat neckline can be great to balance horizontal proportions.
The crew neckline is a common round neck shape often seen in t-shirts. If you have a short-medium/medium or long neck, a small to medium bust, this style of neckline will work very well for you. However, given this neckline is high on the body, be mindful that a large bust will be emphasised, unless the fabric drapes well and the bodice of the top is less fitted. A slightly more open circular cut of the crew neckline is referred to the jewel neckline and is potentially more versatile. There will always be personal style factors to consider. For example one of my clients loved the minimal chic look of a crew neck tee layered beneath her blazer. While she had a large bust, her lovely long neck suited the higher crew neckline. The t-shirt I recommended was made from a very soft viscose fabric that did not cling, plus she was wearing this particular t-shirt as a layering piece. While there are always style guides, remember that styling garments is personal and must be adapted to suit the client’s personality.
The close fitting higher crew neckline is often seen in t-shirts, sweaters and knits.
The scoop neckline is a lower, more open version of the crew or jewel neck style. The medium scoop suits most people and creates harmony with those who have a slightly rounded jaw line. Similarly to the boatneck, a wider scoop neckline will work to balance those who might have narrow shoulders compared to their hipline. Scoop necklines are also suitable for larger bustlines and can work well to minimise the tummy area if constructed within a top or dress that has a higher waistline just under the bust, highlighting this narrowest point.
Scoop necklines can elongate your torso and draw attention to your face.
Square necklines have an obvious square shape that cut across the top of the bust and highlight the collarbones and decolletage area. It’s a great option for women who wish to elongate their necks, or create width through the shoulders. If you are curvy through the hips and/or have a larger bust, a deep square neckline is worth considering.
The square neckline can balance wider hips and frame the face beautifully.
The cowl or draped neckline is one of my favourite necklines because is it so elegant and can easily elevate any outfit. I have seen it work beautifully for women with both small and larger busts; the drape of the fabric creates the illusion of volume for those who may desire fullness, while the openness of the neck design accommodates a curvier frame. A sleeveless cowl neck top looks lovely layered underneath a jacket and the fall of the fabric makes it a particularly feminine style of top that suits all face shapes and many body shapes.
The draped neckline is elegant and suits most individuals.
While it’s a good idea to experiment and try on a variety of necklines, if you are still unsure about which necklines suit you best, consider investing in a style consultation with an image consultant or personal stylist. And remember, while it’s good to select a neckline that suits your physical proportions and body features, at the end of the day, the most important consideration is choosing one that makes you feel most comfortable and confident.
Images: Off the shoulder neckline @ Taking Shape (top left), Cowl neckline @ Forever New (top right), Scoop neckline @ Taking Shape (bottom left), V-neckline @ Taking Shape (bottom right).